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Arts & Culture

Ethiopian coffee ceremonies served Saturdays in San Diego

It fuels many of us each morning, with an extra rush of energy — coffee. But how did that magical brown drink come to be so ubiquitous? One San Diego restaurant is providing clients with traditional coffee ceremonies and a history lesson.

From no frills black, to lots of cream, sugar and flavorings, coffee can take many forms. But some are more powerful and sacred than others.

That includes the version that comes from the birthplace of coffee.

“This is traditional Ethiopian coffee. This is a coffee ceremony,” said Alemtsehay Dagne, while roasting coffee beans over a specialized pan.

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Alemtsehay Dagne roasts coffee beans over a burner, Mar. 27, 2024.
Jacob Aere
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KPBS
Alemtsehay Dagne roasts coffee beans over a burner, Mar. 27, 2024.

Dange and her husband Fekadu Engedaw operate Addis Restaurant in San Diego. The couple recently relaunched traditional Ethiopian coffee ceremonies at their establishment.

“We're here for everybody. This is welcoming for everybody. This is everybody's house,” Dagne said.

They said the ceremonies are a way for them to stay connected to their culture and share it proudly with others.

Engedaw explained how even the word ‘coffee’ ties back to a region in Ethiopia.

“Coffee, from Kaffa. The place Kaffa — so in the name also,” said Engedaw. “We bring from that area the original one, the organic one. And then we produce here and then serve the community.”

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Fekadu Engedaw stands inside of his Addis Restaurant, Mar. 27, 2024.
Jacob Aere
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KPBS
Fekadu Engedaw stands inside of his Addis Restaurant, Mar. 27, 2024.

This isn’t your average cup of joe. The ceremony is a slow three-cup process meant to fill the senses and to be savored alongside Ethiopian snacks at each step.

Dange is normally the host for the ceremony.

“They sit down around me, so I have to roast the beans. I have to introduce about the coffee, a little about Ethiopia and then we start from there,” she said.

Ethiopian chairs inside Addis Restaurant depict a woman making coffee, Mar. 27, 2024.
Jacob Aere
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KPBS
Ethiopian chairs inside Addis Restaurant depict a woman making coffee, Mar. 27, 2024.

The couple said coffee ceremonies are an important daily ritual in Ethiopia — to gather with family and friends and talk about life’s changes. It's sort of like group therapy.

“Discussing every issue, anybody's issues,” Engedaw said. “You bring it here, everybody discusses and they'll give you suggestions from their experience.”

Alemtsehay Dagne sits in front of an Ethiopian coffee set, Mar. 27, 2024.
Jacob Aere
/
KPBS
Alemtsehay Dagne sits in front of an Ethiopian coffee set, Mar. 27, 2024.

In traditional Ethiopian coffee, the roasted beans are finely ground directly into the water, so that first cup has a powerful kick.

“This is stronger. This is like four times Starbucks,” Engedaw said.

Reservations are recommended for the ceremonies — held every Saturday at their restaurant on El Cajon Boulevard.