In Oceanside, California, Matsu hosted a rare evening of cultural exchange: a six-course tasting menu by chef William Eick paired with sake from Koedo Kagamiyama, the only brewery of its kind in Kawagoe, Saitama. Leading the pairings was Akihiro Igarashi, the brewery’s president, who oversaw its remarkable revival. A Brewery Reborn First founded in 1875, Koedo Kagamiyama once flourished as part of Kawagoe’s proud brewing tradition. After closing in 2000, it seemed lost—until its rebirth in 2007, defying Japan’s near-impossible licensing climate. Today, the brewery stands alone in Kawagoe, a town known as Koedo (“Little Edo”) for its preserved Edo-era charm. At the heart of its identity is Sake Musashi, a rice variety unique to Saitama. Cultivated with local farmers, it yields pure, expressive sake that has garnered national recognition, including a Gold Medal at the Japan Sake Awards. For this collaboration, Chef Eick crafted a six-course tasting menu that echoed the same philosophy of respect for terroir. Musashi Junmai with scallop and melon ponzu, a meeting of briny sweetness and refreshing acidity. Tobindori Shizuku Daiginjo with uni French toast and whisky nikiri, showcasing richness against delicacy. Musashi Daiginjo with sheepshead and banana curry, a pairing of layered umami and tropical notes. Wine Yeast Junmai with yellowtail, apple, and carrot, where fruit-driven aromatics mirrored the plate. Omachi Tokubetsu with lamb, honey, and grape, a dialogue of savory depth and gentle sweetness. Wine Yeast Junmai with sweet potato, ratafia, and kokuto, closing the meal in balance and warmth. Visit: https://www.eatatmatsu.com/reservations Matsu on Instagram and Facebook
