Most mornings, you’ll find Kelly Hennessy working the counter with staff at Mary’s Donuts — greeting customers and taking orders for fresh donuts and coffee.
But on a recent Monday, Kelly wore a black sweater. On the well-worn counter, next to a napkin dispenser with an “I heart Mary’s” sticker, was a collection of flowers, cards, candles and photos.
Kelly and the community are mourning the loss of Kelly's grandmother, Mary Hennessy, the owner and founder of Mary’s Donuts. She passed away at the age of 94 late last month.
But, her donut shop remains busy, lively even. You can hear chopping from the kitchen as staff dice apples to make Mary’s signature apple fritters.
“Our donuts are good,” Hennessy said. “They’re always good.”
Mary’s Donuts has been part of the Santee community for more than four decades. Generations have grown up coming to the 24/7 donut shop.
A mix of locals — families, retirees, folks seeking a morning respite before their workday — sit on blue bar stools and mint green diner chairs. They're enjoying maple bacon bars, pumpkin spice donuts and, of course, the fritters.
“I think having a business open 24 hours a day (that) is able to serve the community is really important,” Kelly said. “To be reliable, to be there for people, it allows for you to be counted on.”
Mary built that trust during her four decades of business.
Humble origins
From the day she opened up shop in 1984, Mary had a simple and affordable menu — a reflection of her humble upbringing during the Great Depression.
“Mary grew up without any money,” Kelly said. “She's from a farm in southern Minnesota during the depression. She ate bread and butter sandwiches. When she finally had the ability to give back, it became extremely important to her. She was generous.”
Mary hadn’t planned on being in the donut business. But one day in 1973, her late husband, Donald, handed her a “help wanted” ad from Winchell’s.
After learning the ropes at Winchell’s for a decade, she set her sights on a shop in Santee, called Zona’s, that needed a new owner. Kelly said the sellers wouldn’t work with a woman, so the paperwork was done in Donald’s name. But the business really belonged to Mary.
The shop gradually became a community gathering place and the couple decided to change the name to Mary’s.
“They loved to hang out,” Kelly explained. “They loved to see the people.”
As Mary served donuts and coffee, she wanted that casual, hangout energy to be reflected in the space. Pictures of her clientele started appearing on the walls.
“Mary took all these photos,” Kelly said. “It was important to her ... It was about these people in this place living life together.”
As the business thrived, Mary found other ways to give back to the community. She sponsored sports teams and donated donuts to shelters and hospitals.
“The owner was so wonderful,” said Lainey McShea, a regular at Mary’s Donuts. “She did a lot of things for the community.”
Kelly said Mary didn’t eat many of her own donuts. Her preferred kickstart to the day was exercise. Even in her 90s, Mary was always moving.
“She had boundless energy,” Kelly said. “She woke up every morning and did her floor exercises and she went to work. And then she would go to a SilverSneakers workout class.”
The next generation
On that recent Monday, 10-year-old Milan Flores and 13-year-old London Flores stood next to the counter with Mary’s memorial, eagerly anticipating their donuts.
“Everybody loves Mary’s,” London said. “I think everyone will be a little sad but everyone will come and memorize (remember) her by getting her donuts.”
Not all that long ago, Kelly was London’s age. Today, her childhood memories are sprinkled throughout the shop.
Mary didn’t hesitate to put her granddaughter to work — giving her special assignments whenever she visited.
“My grandmother owned it and kind of let me have the run of the place,” Kelly said. “She would set up a special spot so I can decorate donuts.”
She didn’t know it then, but this on-the-job training was preparing her for what was ahead.
As both Kelly and Mary grew older, Mary started sharing more of the business load. Kelly believes keeping the establishment going is her calling.
“It just worked out the way it was supposed to,” Kelly said.
Kelly said the shop’s growth and name recognition came as a surprise to Mary.
“She didn't expect it to become the place it became. .. She didn't expect Mary’s to become this cornerstone of a community,” Kelly said.
Kelly sees the importance of honoring her grandmother’s legacy.
“It's important for me to just keep doing what she's always done,” Kelly said. “She wanted us to be here. She wanted us to be reliable. She wanted to help people. She wanted to give people the opportunity to grow and do better. And I want to do the same thing.”
A public celebration of life for Mary will be held at the Town Center Community Park East in Santee on Nov. 15 at 2 p.m.
