Culinary Historians of San Diego will present “Foie Gras: The Divisive Delicacy,” by James Beard Award winner Andrew Coe, at 10:30 a.m. April 15, in the Neil Morgan Auditorium of the San Diego Central Library. We don’t agree about foie gras. The fattened liver of ducks or geese is either the “acme of gastronomy,” one of the most delicious and luxurious foods in the world, or it is the product of a cruel and inhumane feeding regime that must be halted immediately. Food historian Andrew Coe traces the dish from its roots in the ancient Middle East, to the shtetls of Eastern Europe and finally to today’s restaurant tables. In the 19th century, French cuisine and particularly pate de foie gras came to represent the pinnacle of elite dining — and also came to the attention of the burgeoning animal rights movement. Since then debate about this delicacy has ebbed and flowed around the world. Its production is now banned in many countries, while in France it remains “a protected cultural and gastronomical heritage,” In the United States, force-feeding is prohibited in some states, yet the dish continues to appear as a luxury item on many menus. The only certainty about the future is that the question of foie gras will remain unresolved. Andrew Coe is a writer and independent scholar. Andrew and his wife, Jane Ziegelman, are co-authors of “A Square Meal: A Culinary History of the Great Depression,” which won a James Beard award. His “Chop Suey: A Cultural History of Chinese Food in the United States,” was a James Beard award finalist and named one of the best food books of the year by the Financial Times. His latest book is “Pirate’s Gold: A Gilded Age Saga of Family, Money and (Maybe) Murder.” He has written articles and blog posts on everything from the ancient history of foie gras to indulging I the tastiest bread in New York City. Coe has appeared in documentaries such as the National Geographic Channel’s “Eat: The Story of Food” and “The Search for General Tso.” Andrew and his wife live in Brooklyn with their two children.
