S1:
S2: My parents are first generation.
S3: That's Leslie Gonzalez. She's a web producer here at KPBS. Born and raised in Indio , California , just a few hours northeast from San Diego and Tijuana.
S2: My grandparents came to the United States in the 60s , following the grapevine. They worked in agriculture and a lot of the traditions in terms of food , family. And that closeness between those values and principles and , you know , Christianity and , you know , family prioritization has have been heavily influenced in our family as a Hispanic family.
S3: Leslie's story is familiar to many Mexican-American families.
S1: But like many second generation kids , Leslie also grew up navigating two cultures at once.
S3: English was the language of opportunity at home , a way for her parents to ensure she had access to education and a future they had struggled to find as first generation immigrants.
S2: Because of the second generation of my primary language is English. My parents were very much forward and speak English , assimilate to the United States culture , but it's out of love and wanting them to make sure that I had the best offer to me in terms of education and opportunity , only because from their experience being first generation primary Spanish speakers , then learning English , they had some struggles , um , you know , adjusting to the American climate , people , economy , etc..
S3: Among those struggles was that Leslie's parents were stigmatized while growing up for being immigrants , for not speaking English properly , for instance. And like many immigrant families who arrived in the U.S. , her parents chose to sacrifice part to their culture in an effort to assimilate into mainstream American life. They wanted to spare Leslie the stigma they felt growing up.
S1: So Leslie didn't learn about Dia de Muertos until high school and early college.
S2: Believe it or not , um , in fact , the the custom and the holiday itself didn't become forefront in my mind or anything until I was in college. I studied Chicano studies again because identity played a big part. As a young adult , I wanted to know who I was , um , and what I wanted to become based on my background. And , you know , the the fact that this is where my people come from , this is where my heritage has come from.
S3: So Leslie's family never really celebrated the other muertos. They're evangelical Christians who stick to what they know. So the other muertos was overlooked. While more traditional Christian celebrations like Christmas and Easter took center stage. But she doesn't see that as a bad thing. It's just a tradition. They never went out of their way to embrace as the pressure to assimilate weighed heavily on them. Now that she's an adult , Leslie is turning that page. She feels a strong connection to her Mexican heritage , and with the other Muertos being one of , if not the most important tradition , she wants to explore that heritage for herself. Knowing this , Nat was cooking up a proposition , a very Mexican proposition one in the spirit of the show.
S4: You have been to Mexico a couple of times , but never to Tijuana.
S2: Right ? Yes. Never intentionally to go and visit Tijuana.
S4:
S2: There's always the , you know , cuidado. You don't know the corruption , the , um , human trafficking aspects , the , uh , the violence , uh , you know , uh , that's all filters in from , you know , word of mouth and also the personal experiences when they were growing up , because my both heads of the family had lived close to the border. You know , watching the Noticias to way one to many times about what's happening across the border. Um , so a lot of it has deals with mostly negative view. I'm pretty sure like.
S3: And that's why Leslie never crossed into Tijuana to her family , the border city meant danger , corruption , and headlines filled with crime.
S1: Tijuana was the place to avoid , not explore.
S3: And while her parents fears are understandable at Port of Entry , we always aim to break those border stereotypes by highlighting the positive stories and experiences that exist in Tijuana beyond the distorted news headlines.
S1: So I made a suggestion. Leslie and our team at KPBS organized the annual Dia de Muertos digital altar.
S3: Where people upload photos of loved ones who've passed away to honor and remember. Them.
S1: Them. This year , we wanted more social media content , and I thought it would be interesting to visit Tijuana's famous Mercado Hidalgo , home to an incredibly colorful altar full of history and tradition. Okay. Picture it like this. Have you ever seen the movie Coco ? Not.
S3: I'm not sure of using a movie. Made by Pixar is the best way to explain a Mexican tradition. But actually , now that I'm saying it out loud , it actually is probably the easiest way to do it.
S1: Exactly because Coco is a reference that everyone gets instantly. If Coco were real life , Mercado Hidalgo would be the set. It's super alive and full of spirit. On Dia de Muertos , Mercado Hidalgo is an explosion of colors and sweet , salty and spicy aromas filling the air. Marigolds are everywhere. Sugar skulls line nearly every stall , and you can find everything you need to build your own altar.
S3: So yeah , and that thought it was the perfect chance for the digital team to experience Hidalgo's altar firsthand and to show Leslie a city she'd never visited.
S2: I'm super stoked , to be completely honest. Um , I , um , my grandma would always say that I had , like , um , or , like big feet. She say , uh , why are you going all these places ? You're , like , jumping everywhere. Um , and I like taking those risks , like , you know , not kill yourself. Risk. Um , but like , a positive , you know , you're getting out of your comfort zone , exploring new things and places. And the fact that I get to go with people who know the city and who have a love for that city , um , just makes me more excited than , you know , than cautious. And it will , obviously.
S1: Because Leslie was both nervous and excited. The perfect mix. Now she was about to dive into a maze of colors , flowers , and of course , food. Lots of food. You know , the port of entry family. We love food.
S5: We sure do.
S2: I want to eat a lot of food. Oh , you're. Gonna.
S4: Gonna. You're gonna eat a lot. You're gonna eat a lot. I'm gonna make sure you eat a lot of different stuff. Candies , dessert. Soups , meats. I'll make sure of it. I'm.
S2: I'm. If my vice was ascended by gluttony. Uh , honestly , I will eat and explore and just all the food.
S1: I believe borders help us shape how we see the world. Growing up in Tijuana and crossing the border to go to work for more than ten years has completely shaped who I am.
S3: Leslie will be crossing south of the San Diego Tijuana border for the first time , but she'll also be crossing the border between perception and experience.
S1: So come with us as we follow Leslie on her first trip to Tijuana. Explore the iconic Mercado Hidalgo and celebrate Dia de Muertos in true borderland style on us.
S3: From KPBS. This is Port of Entry.
S1: Where we tell cross-border stories that connect us.
S3: I'm Alan Lilienthal.
S1: And I'm Natalia Gonzalez. A week after the conversation with Leslie , I went to Mercado Hidalgo to talk to Elva Olmedo , the woman who organizes the famous altar every year. I wanted to set a date to visit the altar with my digital team and get a behind the scenes look at how it's put together.
S3: But before jumping to our conversation with Elva , some historic context. Since 1955 , Hidalgo has been the beating heart of Tijuana , bursting with fresh produce , spices , crafts , candies and flavors that capture the soul of Mexico. Crowds weaved through its aisles in search of everything from party pinatas to rare spices and exotic fruits.
S1: But on the other muertos , Mercado Hidalgo completely transformed. If you've never been there , the market is a vibrant maze of colors , aromas and flavors. And that's what Dia de Muertos is really about.
S3: It's a tradition that goes back thousands of years , rooted in indigenous beliefs about life , death , and memory.
S1: Later Spanish Catholic influences blended in adding altars , crosses and prayers.
S3: Today , it's one of Mexico's most important cultural celebrations , recognized by Unesco as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
S1: Families build altars in their homes or communities , decorating them with photos , food , drinks , flowers and mementos of their loved ones.
S3: The idea isn't to mourn , but to welcome back the spirits for a brief visit , to share stories , music , and , of course , food.
S1: I arrived at the market right at its busiest hour. I parked near the large kiosk where the altar is built every year. Next to a coffee.
S3: Shop , colorful papel picado stretched from the kiosk to the cafe shop.
S1: As I walked closer , I saw Elba wearing an apron covered in bright , cheerful skeletons , surrounded by boxes overflowing with vibrant altar decorations like papel picado , tablecloths , flowers and ceramic cholla sprinkler dogs.
S3:
S6: I love them , okay.
S7: My name is Olmedo Relaciones Publicas and my dad.
S1: Runs the Mercados public relations department. She's part of the third generation , helping to build the altar each year. Her grandfather was one of the market's founding partners.
S7: Entonces esta seva de familles familia es una nuestra casa in mercado.
S3: Elva explained that the altar and Mercado Hidalgo began as a tradition in the homes of the market's founding families.
S7: El dia de ser un spectacle para el client. Nos la la. Licenciado es una ofrenda para todos Los socios son Quiznos. Adelante en el camino.
S3: Over time , it's become a spectacle for visitors during Dia de Muertos , but at its heart , it remains an offering to honor the market's founders who've passed away.
S7: Pero esta es muy peculiar porque llama mucho al turismo.
S1: And while it's not the main goal the market does see a big boost in business during the days leading up to the celebration especially on November 2nd.
S7: Es un dia muy importante también economica una economica muy significative porque todo el mercado vend vendor dia de muerto. Entonces aqui comienza a todos.
S1: We agreed on a date to take Leslie back to see the completed altar. I said goodbye to Elva but the air at Mercado Hidalgo was still buzzing. The smell of spices and sweet panda muerto lingered as I grabbed some fruit and vegetables for my kitchen. Then I made an emergency stop at the famous Oaxacan food stall de Oaxaca.
S3: What do you mean , an emergency ? What happened ? Are you.
S6: Okay ? Yeah. I'm okay. I was hungry , I needed some more enchiladas.
S3: That is. That is quite an emergency.
S6: It is.
S3: Sound the alarm. I need some. Now.
S6: Now. Anyway , that was just the beginning.
S1: Soon I would return with Leslie visiting Tijuana for the very first time. I.
S6: I.
S1: Was excited. The bustling aisles promised a whirlwind of colors and smells. A true dive into Dia de Muertos.
S3: Leslie drove across the border into Tijuana , where Nat was waiting to meet her.
S1: I honestly felt.
S4: Like a kid on a.
S1: School field trip , standing on the corner with my backpack , trying not to miss the bus.
S8: To the border. I'm super excited. I saw the Mexican flag. I saw the arches. It's almost like holy light rained down on the city and you're like , oh , all right.
S1: Back on the other side. My phone bus. Leslie was almost here. I scanned the street.
S9: I see them , I'm crossing the street.
S1: A pair of hands waved from a gray SUV , flapping wildly like they were flying a plane. Our adventure was officially on. When I opened the car door. Leslie was right there , smiling from ear to ear with that look of a kid who doesn't know exactly where she's going , but can't wait to find out. Hey.
S6: Hey. Hello.
S10:
S8:
S10: Are you nervous ? No. How was your experience crossing to T.J. ? It was actually really fun. I took a lot of pictures. I looked like a tourist. It was fun. Yay ! I even took a picture and says , Welcome to Tijuana.
S3: On the way to Hidalgo , Leslie pointed at murals , food stalls , and read every restaurant sign allowed. Aloud.
S10: Aloud. I see smell. It's , like enticing. I just want to. It's like that smoke finger that curls at you in the distance. Like a cartoon. Yeah. Come hither. You can see the color of this. Exactly. It's like. And then you see me lift off the ground , and I'm just following it. You know.
S1: We made it to Mercado Hidalgo pretty quickly.
S3: Once they were inside. Natalie could see Leslie's eyes light up , like if the colors hit her all at once.
S1: But before diving into the altar and all the festivities , there was one very important stop to make coffee. Because. Priorities. You know.
S10: How are you so far ? My grandma would be proud because I ordered my entire coffee in Spanish. Yay ! We're so proud of you. And I understood everything that she asked me. I'm excited. My Spanish hasn't weakened. I'm happy.
S3: Caffeinated and ready. Natalie led Leslie straight to the heart of Hidalgo and asked her to describe everything she could see , hear , and smell around her.
S10: Oh , there's like a huge like. It's like a plaza. So it's like a square , rectangular space of , like , door to door or like , you.
S2: Know , really tight.
S10: Knit markets. So , like , right next door , you'll have , like , a , um , fruit stand mixed with , like a bodega mixed in with , like a it's like a wonderful , colorfully painted market with pink and yellow and turquoise. And you have the car.
S2: Park in the center.
S10: And you see people coming in with , like , crates of flowers and just food. And it's just this wonderful sensory enjoyment of just being able to see people live their everyday life and just being able to be a part of it. And it just feels like you're just in the motion of everything.
S3: If you've been to Hidalgo , you know what she means. It's the good kind of chaos colors , smells of sweet candy , fresh flowers , and produce blending together.
S2: They jump in and you become a part of it , or you just become a raucous in everybody's way. But everyone seems to be so comfortable , and it's really just I think it's wonderful.
S3: She turned in every direction like an excited puppy , easily distracted by every new sight and sound and smell. She wandered the aisles , eager to take it all in , as if she were making up for something she was missing.
S2: I see a bee kind of drifting over a small sugar skull , and the sugar skulls are are white with these beautiful like oil colors of green , yellow and blue oranges. And they have icing drizzles all over them. Um , that kind of mark , like the sutures or just the colorful decorations of them. And there's little toy altars that are really miniature altars and they're ceramic.
S1: Leslie didn't grow up celebrating Dia.
S4: De Muertos.
S1: But she was finding something , calling her a connection , missing from her family. Alas , connection to her Mexican roots.
S2: I am very blessed right now. I feel like. Everything.
S1: Everything.
S2: Feels centered and I'm able to really enjoy the sights and sounds and the smells. I was just remembering a lot of it is like familiar to me. The smell of like for cleaner is and food and sweet smells in the background really kind of trigger a lot of memories for me. Like especially with family.
S1: There was something grounding about being there between the music and the scent of sushi or marigolds. It felt like the kind of peace you only find when you slow down and really look around.
S2: So for me , I feel very grateful and just can't cups can't stop smiling. I think this is a this has been , I think , such a treasure to be here and to experience even just a little fragment of Tijuana , this market. I just feel super blessed. It feels great. That's how I feel.
S3: It was as if the traditions her family had overlooked all these years had been patiently waiting for her to embrace them , waiting for Leslie to bridge the gap of that lost connection. Nat recognized this in Leslie and wanted to dial it to a hundred , so she took her to the main attraction at the Met Gala.
S1: We are in front of the altar right now.
S2: With all these photos and leading up the steps , you have these beautiful , this beautiful arrangement of , um , blue and white ceramic plates and pictures and the animals that are also ceramic as well. And surrounding this open eared hexagonal structure is surrounded by , like the the Katrina's or the Katrina's. And they have little photo areas where people can enjoy.
S3: She described every little detail in the kiosk where the altar stood. Her eyes were locked on the scene unfolding in front of her.
S2: We're going up to the altar to take a look at all these beautiful pictures. I am super excited to see all the community putting together their their family's portraits , and I think this is the first time I've ever seen , like an altar at this scale. Here at the Plaza , there's like this beautiful marigold bridge with the animal here in the background.
S11: And I love the stars. This is so cool. Oh , this is so pretty.
S3: As she walked to the center of the kiosk in front of the seven foot tall altar that stretched from edge to edge , Leslie took in the magic of the moment.
S11:
S2: Like you can see the the personalities in their faces , and just knowing that the lives that they lived.
S3: That's really what the other Muertos is about , remembering those faces and those lives , the people who made us who we are. And in that moment , Leslie was completely tuned into that the chandelier.
S2: It has to be my favorite part with the butterflies and the stars. I feel like it really gives that. That.
S11: That.
S2: Surreal feel between the present , the past , and the in-between.
S1: After spending some time at the altar , my stomach started making loud noises. So we did what any self-respecting group of journalists would do. After a long morning of recording , we went to eat. We stopped at the Viridiana El Rincon de Loso inside the Mercado , a restaurant that's been operating there for more than 40 years. The smell of fresh baked tortillas , cilantro , onions , beef birria , chilies and spices was a delicious break from the scent of marigolds that overtook the rest of the mercado.
S3: Oh , that sounds so good.
S1: So you will just have to imagine it with me.
S3: Or we can go back to one. Okay. Or the other.
S1: I always ordered that. For a moment , it didn't feel like work. We were just friends. Laughing , passing the salsa , talking over each other , savoring a meal that filled more than our stomachs.
S3: Sounds lovely. I wish I was there with you. Before saying goodbye to Mark Hidalgo. Natalie wanted to ask Leslie one more time how she was feeling.
S2: Honestly , this has been a fun day. This has been a very enriching moment for me. Being able to see these colors , the people , the food.
S1: You could see it in her smile and the way she soaked everything in , finally connecting with something that had always been waiting for her on the other side of the border.
S2: Um , I had the , um , moussaka nuevo with fresh homemade corn tortillas , and I slathered that with butter and with salt. And I think that was the best thing I've had. And then biting into that. Would you call that candy that you had.
S1: Come on to you ? As Lizzie talked about her breakfast , it was clear these weren't just new flavors.
S3: They were a delicious reminder of where she came from.
S1: What did you think ? What do you think of Tijuana so far ? Because you you've only seen.
S2: Like , a.
S1: Very small part of the city.
S2: Honestly , I really like the ambiance , the feel of it. I think that there's so much more to see , and I want to be able to see more. I'm really interested in wanting to see the other avenues in Tijuana that is offered , not just like the markets , but also theater and art and , um , even the literature here. I heard that the bookstores here are fantastic , so I want to try that out too. So maybe in the.
S1: Future , as we step back into the busy streets , the car smelled of incense and copal.
S3: Or with the north of the border folks call smudging sage.
S2: I feel really hopeful now that I'm here , because now I can say it's not what they think it is. It's not this , um , horrible visual on their head of what the news gives them every day of , uh , whether it's human trafficking cartels. So I feel hopeful knowing that my family could feel more open to this side because I just see people here. I just see people who are just like us and , like , not just like us , but who are like my family. Um , they their food , the smells , the language , the laughter. It makes me feel both a little sad that I wasn't able to enjoy this part of myself. But at the same time , I felt glad that as an adult , I can see it for myself.
S3: As they were getting signaled to get into the van. Leslie blew everyone away with a heartfelt reflection that perfectly encapsulated her whole experience.
S2: I felt like a child. That's the closest I felt to everything. The candy. Um. The coffee. Um. Laughing at us. I feel very giddy because it's a glimmer of a part of me that really wanted to dive deep. And , um. I don't remember where it all stopped. I just know that right now , it's like coming home. Like going back to a place that was there in the beginning. But it's not there anymore. Like the house moved. So I feel both a little sad. But I also feel like I've come back to something that has always been here.
S1: Crossing into Tijuana wasn't just physical for Leslie.
S3: It was emotional. She crossed that invisible line between her family's fears and the vibrant reality on the other side.
S1: Full of color life and the sounds and smells of the city.
S3: And ultimately , that's what the Muertos is really about.
S1: Realizing the people we miss aren't gone. They're right here with us. In every flavor , every song , every smell , every memory that refuses to fade.
S3: This episode of Port of Entry was written and produced by Natalie Gonzalez.
S1: Adrian Villalobos is technical producer and sound designer.
S3: This episode was edited by Christy Nguyen and Julio Cesar Ortiz Franco.
S1: Lisa morissette is director of audio programming and operations. Soy yo soy Natalie Gonzalez.
S3: Nos vemos pronto.
